The ingredient narratives reshaping clean beauty.
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)
aka aha · alpha hydroxy acid · alpha hydroxy acids · fruit acids
The water-soluble exfoliant family — glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, tartaric, citric — that resurfaces the stratum corneum by loosening corneocyte adhesion. The 2025 conversation has moved from 'how high a percentage' to 'which acid for which skin': mandelic for sensitive and melanin-rich skin, lactic for hydration-leaning resurfacing, glycolic for stubborn texture. Drunk Elephant's TLC Framboos is the indie-blend benchmark.
- loosens stratum corneum adhesion for resurfacing
- improves tone, texture, and post-inflammatory pigmentation
- increases dermal glycosaminoglycan synthesis at appropriate doses
- resurfacing toners
- weekly peel pads
- tone-evening serums
Buffered to pH 3.5–4 in leave-on systems. Free-acid percentage matters as much as labeled percentage — a 10% glycolic at pH 4.5 is much gentler than 10% at pH 3. Pair with humectants and barrier lipids; avoid stacking with retinol same routine.
Photosensitizing — daily SPF required. Over-exfoliation is the most common consumer mistake — barrier symptoms (stinging, redness) signal a pause. EU caps glycolic at 4% in leave-on consumer products as of 2024 — expect global re-formulation.
Trusted at moderate percentages in leave-on formats; suspect when stacked with other irritants.
The ingredient narratives reshaping clean beauty.
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)
aka aha · alpha hydroxy acid · alpha hydroxy acids · fruit acids
The water-soluble exfoliant family — glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, tartaric, citric — that resurfaces the stratum corneum by loosening corneocyte adhesion. The 2025 conversation has moved from 'how high a percentage' to 'which acid for which skin': mandelic for sensitive and melanin-rich skin, lactic for hydration-leaning resurfacing, glycolic for stubborn texture. Drunk Elephant's TLC Framboos is the indie-blend benchmark.
- loosens stratum corneum adhesion for resurfacing
- improves tone, texture, and post-inflammatory pigmentation
- increases dermal glycosaminoglycan synthesis at appropriate doses
- resurfacing toners
- weekly peel pads
- tone-evening serums
Buffered to pH 3.5–4 in leave-on systems. Free-acid percentage matters as much as labeled percentage — a 10% glycolic at pH 4.5 is much gentler than 10% at pH 3. Pair with humectants and barrier lipids; avoid stacking with retinol same routine.
Photosensitizing — daily SPF required. Over-exfoliation is the most common consumer mistake — barrier symptoms (stinging, redness) signal a pause. EU caps glycolic at 4% in leave-on consumer products as of 2024 — expect global re-formulation.
Trusted at moderate percentages in leave-on formats; suspect when stacked with other irritants.