active
Saccharide Isomerate
A biomimetic humectant derived from saccharide isomerisation that forms a covalent bond with skin proteins. Distinct from conventional humectants in its duration of moisture retention.
Benefits
- Long-lasting moisture retention — 72-hour claim based on covalent bonding mechanism
- Biomimetic — structural analogue of natural skin NMF sugars
- Improves skin hydration without the tack of hyaluronic acid
- Suitable for sensitive and dry skin
- Water-binding capacity independent of ambient humidity
Example uses
- Foundations with skincare claims
- Tinted moisturisers
- Long-wear hydration serums
- SPF moisturisers
- All-day hydration formulas
Mechanism of action
Saccharide isomerate contains a mixture of C-glycoside sugars (glucose and fructose isomers) that form reversible covalent bonds with lysine and cysteine residues in corneocyte surface proteins. This covalent attachment anchors the hydrophilic saccharide structure to the stratum corneum surface, enabling water retention independent of concentration gradient effects — unlike conventional film-former humectants.
Clinical evidence · Moderate
Manufacturer-conducted studies demonstrate extended moisture retention. Independent replication in peer-reviewed journals is limited but the mechanism is well-described.
Effective concentration range
0.5–2%
Formulation notes
Water-soluble; stable across cosmetic pH range. Compatible with most actives. The covalent bonding mechanism is unique — requires contact time with skin protein for optimal effect.
Watchouts
The covalent bonding mechanism is genuinely distinctive but requires adequate contact time and undisturbed application — challenge in rinse-off products. The 72-hour claim is from the original manufacturer's studies, not independently replicated at the scale typical of clinical trials.
Stacks with
Controversies & overclaims
The 72-hour claim originates from one manufacturer (Nouryon/Pentavitin) and should be understood in that context. Independent validation at scale is limited.
Market positioning
Sold as long-lasting biomimetic humectant. The covalent bonding mechanism is a genuine functional differentiator; the specific 72-hour claim should be attributed to the manufacturer's data.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
Saccharide Isomerate
CareSkin saccharide isomerate · pentavitin · saccharide isomerate from wheat
Clean beauty perception
Strongly accepted in clean beauty as a sophisticated, biomimetic humectant. EWG rating 1. Minimal safety concerns.
Related ingredients
Graph relationships
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