Intelligence · Ingredients

The ingredient narratives reshaping clean beauty.

Saccharide Isomerate

aka CareSkin saccharide isomerate · pentavitin · saccharide isomerate from wheat

A biomimetic humectant derived from saccharide isomerisation that forms a covalent bond with skin proteins. Distinct from conventional humectants in its duration of moisture retention.

Benefits
  • Long-lasting moisture retention — 72-hour claim based on covalent bonding mechanism
  • Biomimetic — structural analogue of natural skin NMF sugars
  • Improves skin hydration without the tack of hyaluronic acid
  • Suitable for sensitive and dry skin
  • Water-binding capacity independent of ambient humidity
Example uses
  • Foundations with skincare claims
  • Tinted moisturisers
  • Long-wear hydration serums
  • SPF moisturisers
  • All-day hydration formulas
Formulation notes

Water-soluble; stable across cosmetic pH range. Compatible with most actives. The covalent bonding mechanism is unique — requires contact time with skin protein for optimal effect.

Watchouts

The covalent bonding mechanism is genuinely distinctive but requires adequate contact time and undisturbed application — challenge in rinse-off products. The 72-hour claim is from the original manufacturer's studies, not independently replicated at the scale typical of clinical trials.

Clean beauty perception

Strongly accepted in clean beauty as a sophisticated, biomimetic humectant. EWG rating 1. Minimal safety concerns.