active
Pullulan
A polysaccharide produced by Aureobasidium pullulans fermentation used in mascara and hair formulas for film-forming and temporary tightening function.
Benefits
- Film-forming — creates flexible, breathable films on lashes and skin
- Temporary skin-tightening via film contraction on drying
- Stabilises mascara and serum formulations
- Humectant at higher concentrations
- Biocompatible and biodegradable
Example uses
- Mascaras
- Lash-lengthening formulas
- Instant firming serums
- Hair styling products
- Temporary tightening eye treatments
Mechanism of action
Amylose-like glucan polymer (α-1,4 and α-1,6 linkages) forms a continuous film on surfaces as the aqueous vehicle evaporates. The dehydrated film exerts tension on the underlying skin surface, producing a physical tightening sensation. As a mascara coating agent, the flexible film elongates and supports lash fibres without brittleness.
Clinical evidence · Moderate
Film-forming function well-characterised. Safety confirmed by CIR. No pharmacological mechanism.
Effective concentration range
1–5%
Formulation notes
Water-soluble; forms clear, flexible films on drying. pH stable. Compatible with most cosmetic ingredients. Effective film-former at 1–5%.
Watchouts
No skin-active benefits beyond film-forming and temporary physical effect. Temporary tightening is a physical, not biological, mechanism.
Stacks with
Controversies & overclaims
The temporary tightening effect is a physical illusion — film tension — not a biological skin-firming mechanism. When the film dissolves (e.g., on washing), the effect disappears completely. This mechanism is not always clearly explained in product communications.
Market positioning
Marketed as instant firming and lifting ingredient. The physical mechanism is real but temporary. Confusion with biological firming actives is common in marketing.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
Pullulan
alpha-1,6;alpha-1,4-glucan · pullulane · fungal polysaccharide
Clean beauty perception
Accepted in clean beauty as a natural fermentation-derived polysaccharide. EWG rating 1.
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