The most active triterpenoid isolated from centella asiatica (cica). Where 'centella' on a label can mean anything, madecassoside is the standardized molecule with the strongest data on barrier repair, post-procedure recovery, and TGF-β-mediated collagen synthesis. La Roche-Posay Cicaplast (and dermatology's broader 'cica' category) is built on it; Dr. Jart+ Cicapair, Skin1004 Madagascar Centella, and Purito's centella ranges drive K-beauty side. The 2025 conversation is moving from 'centella' to 'madecassoside %' on the label.
Benefits
accelerates wound healing and post-procedure repair (clinical-grade evidence)
anti-inflammatory via NF-κB suppression
stimulates type I and III collagen — the 'micro-anti-aging' angle
Example uses
post-procedure recovery (LRP Cicaplast)
barrier-repair creams
sensitive-skin daily moisturizers
Mechanism of action
The most-isolated and most-studied of the centella asiatica triterpene glycosides — a 12-carbon pentacyclic triterpenoid linked to a trisaccharide chain. Upregulates type I and III procollagen via TGF-β1 signalling in fibroblasts, accelerates re-epithelialisation by stimulating keratinocyte migration through the same growth-factor cascade, and suppresses NF-κB and TNF-α-driven inflammation at remarkably low concentrations (0.1–0.2% delivers measurable effect). Distinct from generic 'centella extract' in that the molecule is identified and dosable; the asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid co-actives in centella contribute synergistically but madecassoside carries the strongest individual evidence.
Clinical evidence · High
Multiple controlled trials on barrier repair, photoaging, post-laser recovery, and scarring; the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 clinical program (using 0.2% madecassoside) is the most-replicated commercial reference.
Effective concentration range
0.1–1% (0.2% is the LRP Cicaplast benchmark)
Formulation notes
Effective at 0.1–1% in serums and creams; LRP Cicaplast uses 0.2% madecassoside as its hero. Stacks well with panthenol (LRP's signature combo), ceramides, and centella's sister molecules (asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid — together the 'TECA' complex).
Watchouts
'Centella extract' on a label without madecassoside spec gives no efficacy guarantee — supplier variability is enormous.
Almost none on the molecule itself — the controversy is reflexively about its parent, centella, where 'cica' marketing routinely uses generic extracts without madecassoside specification. Brands that name and dose madecassoside specifically (LRP, Dr. Jart V7, Skin1004) operate in a different clinical tier from those that just say 'cica'.
Market positioning
The cica molecule's grown-up form — sold by dermatology-adjacent brands as the named, dosable triterpene rather than the wellness-tier 'cica'. One of the few cases where the rigorous version of an ingredient genuinely outperforms the consumer-friendly version.