active
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
Vitamin B5 in its skin-penetrating alcohol form — converts to pantothenic acid in the stratum corneum. The barrier-repair and humectant defaults of dermatology, anchoring everything from Bepanthen (the Bayer wound cream) to La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 to virtually every K-beauty 'B5' product (Some By Mi B5, Numbuzin, Torriden DIVE-IN). 2024–2025 saw 'B5' become the calmest possible marketing claim — universally readable as 'this won't hurt'.
Benefits
- humectant — binds water in the stratum corneum
- supports barrier repair and re-epithelialization
- soothes redness and sensitivity
Example uses
- barrier-repair creams (LRP Cicaplast)
- post-procedure care
- scalp and hair leave-ins
Mechanism of action
The alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), readily penetrating the stratum corneum and converted intracellularly to pantothenic acid via panthenol-oxidase. Pantothenic acid is the precursor to coenzyme A, which sits at the centre of fatty-acid synthesis, lipid metabolism, and barrier-lipid production. Topically panthenol acts as a humectant (hydroxyl-rich molecule binding water), an anti-inflammatory (suppresses NF-κB and prostaglandin E2 in irritated keratinocytes), and a barrier-repair promoter via accelerated re-epithelialisation. D-panthenol is the bioactive enantiomer; racemic DL is half-active by mass.
Clinical evidence · High
Decades of clinical evidence in wound care, post-procedure recovery, atopic dermatitis adjunct, and barrier dysfunction — Bepanthen and La Roche-Posay Cicaplast B5 anchor the modern reference base.
Effective concentration range
1–5% (5% is the LRP Cicaplast B5 hero dose)
Formulation notes
Effective at 1–5% in leave-on; 5% is the LRP Cicaplast hero dose. Stable across pH and temperature, compatible with everything. Use D-panthenol (the active enantiomer) not racemic DL-panthenol.
Watchouts
Allergic contact dermatitis is rare but documented.
Controversies & overclaims
Allergic contact dermatitis is real but clinically rare (<0.5% in patch-test cohorts). The D vs DL enantiomer specification is rarely disclosed on consumer labels — DL costs half as much and is functionally half-active, a quality-tier signal worth checking.
Market positioning
Underappreciated outside of dermatology-adjacent skincare. The Cicaplast B5 lineage and the K-beauty 'B5' tradition (Some By Mi, Numbuzin) are the rare commercial expressions of an ingredient that elsewhere does anonymous heavy lifting under the formulator's hood.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
Panthenol
pro-vitamin b5 · d-panthenol · dexpanthenol · vitamin b5 · b5
Clean beauty perception
Universally trusted.
Related ingredients
Graph relationships
Timeline