Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu)

A naturally occurring tripeptide-copper complex (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine bound to Cu²⁺) that engages multiple regenerative pathways. As a transcription-modulating signal, it upregulates type I and III procollagen, elastin, and decorin synthesis in fibroblasts; the copper ion serves as a cofactor for lysyl oxidase (collagen and elastin cross-linking) and superoxide dismutase (antioxidant defence). Also stimulates GAG synthesis and supports angiogenesis at wound edges. Dr. Loren Pickart's 1970s discovery as a wound-healing factor in plasma underlies the cosmetic adaptation.

0.05–2% (Niod CAIS series at the higher end)

Effective at 0.05–2% in serums; the characteristic blue color is the signature. pH 5–7 for stability. Avoid co-formulating with strong vitamin C (chelation), high-dose niacinamide (debated), or AHAs in the same routine — alternate AM/PM.

'Copper peptide' marketing is broad — many products use cheaper analogues (acetyl tetrapeptide-2 + copper salt) that are not GHK-Cu. Look for GHK-Cu specifically named.

The chelation-with-vitamin-C question is real: LAA reduces Cu²⁺ to Cu¹⁺ and disrupts the GHK-Cu complex — separate routines is sound advice. The high-dose-niacinamide conflict is more contested and depends on whether niacinamide is competing for the copper ion. Marketing routinely calls cheaper analogues (acetyl tetrapeptide-2 + copper) 'copper peptides' without the GHK-Cu identity.

Sold as the elegant, science-led peptide active — and one of the few peptide stories where the underlying biology genuinely is decades-deep. The Skin Biology Dr. Pickart formulations anchor the canon; The Ordinary and Niod brought it to the mass shelf.