active
Amino Acid Surfactants
Dominant surfactant class in clean-positioned and K-beauty cleansers through 2024–2026, displacing SLS/SLES. Barrier preservation data and biodegradability credentials drive adoption.
Benefits
- Mild cleansing with low irritation potential
- Biodegradable
- Compatible with skin's acidic pH (~5.5)
- Less denaturing than sulfate surfactants
- Wide foam quality and cleansing strength profiles
Example uses
- Foaming gel cleansers
- Cream cleansers
- Shampoo and scalp care
- Micellar cleansing waters
- Exfoliating cleansers with AHAs
Mechanism of action
Anionic or amphoteric surfactants derived by N-acylation of amino acids. Lower CMC versus alkyl sulfates reduces free monomer concentration responsible for irritation. Cleansing via standard micelle formation.
Clinical evidence · Moderate
Multiple comparative studies vs. SLS demonstrating lower TEWL elevation and reduced erythema.
Effective concentration range
5–20% in cleansing formulations
Formulation notes
Optimal pH 4.5–6.5. Foam volume typically lower than SLS. Combination with cocamidopropyl betaine improves foam aesthetics.
Watchouts
Variable cleansing efficacy against heavy makeup and sunscreen. Higher cost drives temptation to underdose. Natural origin framing is only partially accurate.
Controversies & overclaims
The natural framing is partially accurate — the amino acid component is natural; the acylation chemistry is industrial.
Market positioning
Sold as skin-identical and barrier-safe. Broadly defensible. Naturalness of production process overstated.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
sodium lauroyl glutamate · sodium cocoyl glycinate · sodium lauroyl sarcosinate · potassium cocoyl glycinate
Clean beauty perception
Strongly preferred in clean and K-beauty. EWG ratings 1–2. One of the more defensible clean-beauty ingredient narratives.
Related ingredients
Graph relationships
Timeline