The ingredient narratives reshaping clean beauty.
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
aka pha · phas · gluconolactone · lactobionic acid
The third-generation hydroxy acid family — gluconolactone and lactobionic acid headline. Larger molecule sizes (gluconolactone 178 Da, lactobionic 358 Da) keep them on the surface, delivering exfoliation without the dermal sting of AHAs. Bonus: humectant action and antioxidant capacity (lactobionic chelates iron). Neostrata (originator), Zelens, and The Inkey List anchor the OTC category; K-beauty mid-tier (COSRX, Beauty of Joseon adjacent SKUs) drove 2024–2025's mainstream surge.
- barrier-friendly exfoliation for rosacea, eczema, and post-procedure skin
- humectant — leaves skin feeling hydrated rather than stripped
- antioxidant and anti-glycation activity (notably lactobionic)
- sensitive-skin exfoliating toners
- post-procedure recovery serums
- anti-glycation aging routines
Effective at 4–10%. Often stacked with mild lactic or low-% mandelic for graded exfoliation. Works in leave-on serums, toners, and even sensitive-skin masks. pH 3.5–4.5 is typical but PHAs tolerate slightly higher pH than AHAs without losing efficacy.
Slower payoff and higher cost per percent than glycolic — easy to underdose. 'PHA' marketing sometimes hides homeopathic doses.
Strongly positive — the sensitive-skin and barrier-first crowd's preferred acid family.
The ingredient narratives reshaping clean beauty.
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
aka pha · phas · gluconolactone · lactobionic acid
The third-generation hydroxy acid family — gluconolactone and lactobionic acid headline. Larger molecule sizes (gluconolactone 178 Da, lactobionic 358 Da) keep them on the surface, delivering exfoliation without the dermal sting of AHAs. Bonus: humectant action and antioxidant capacity (lactobionic chelates iron). Neostrata (originator), Zelens, and The Inkey List anchor the OTC category; K-beauty mid-tier (COSRX, Beauty of Joseon adjacent SKUs) drove 2024–2025's mainstream surge.
- barrier-friendly exfoliation for rosacea, eczema, and post-procedure skin
- humectant — leaves skin feeling hydrated rather than stripped
- antioxidant and anti-glycation activity (notably lactobionic)
- sensitive-skin exfoliating toners
- post-procedure recovery serums
- anti-glycation aging routines
Effective at 4–10%. Often stacked with mild lactic or low-% mandelic for graded exfoliation. Works in leave-on serums, toners, and even sensitive-skin masks. pH 3.5–4.5 is typical but PHAs tolerate slightly higher pH than AHAs without losing efficacy.
Slower payoff and higher cost per percent than glycolic — easy to underdose. 'PHA' marketing sometimes hides homeopathic doses.
Strongly positive — the sensitive-skin and barrier-first crowd's preferred acid family.