active
Trehalose
A non-reducing disaccharide with exceptional dehydration protection properties. Used as a humectant and desiccation protectant in prestige dry haircare formulations.
Benefits
- Exceptional dehydration protection — vitrification mechanism
- Humectant water binding
- Protects protein structures from dehydration stress
- Stabilises heat and desiccation-sensitive actives in formulations
- Naturally occurring in organisms adapted to extreme desiccation (tardigrades, resurrection plants)
Example uses
- Dry shampoo formulations
- Desiccation-protective hair treatments
- Premium humectant serums
- Active-stabilising encapsulation vehicles
- Skin protective formulas for harsh climates
Mechanism of action
Trehalose forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules and polar head groups of cellular phospholipids via the glass transition (vitrification) mechanism — replacing water around macromolecules and membranes at low water activity, preventing denaturation. In cosmetics, this mechanism stabilises protein-based actives (peptides, growth factors) in dry formats. As a humectant, hydroxyl groups bind atmospheric water via hydrogen bonding.
Clinical evidence · Moderate
Vitrification mechanism well-characterised in extremophile biology and pharmaceutical drying studies. Cosmetic humectant application supported by hydroxyl group chemistry.
Effective concentration range
0.5–2% (humectant cosmetic use)
Formulation notes
Water-soluble; very stable across broad pH and temperature range. Highly hygroscopic — absorbs ambient moisture, which is desirable in humectant applications.
Watchouts
At very high concentrations can feel tacky. Expensive relative to conventional humectants. Not commonly used as a primary humectant due to cost.
Stacks with
Controversies & overclaims
The connection between trehalose's extremophile desiccation-resistance properties and cosmetic humectant performance is real in principle but the vitrification mechanism that operates in near-zero water activity conditions is not recapitulated in typical cosmetic formulations. The practical benefit is humectancy.
Market positioning
Marketed as extremophile-inspired desiccation protectant. The mechanism is real in extreme conditions; in normal cosmetic use the practical benefit is conventional humectancy with an intellectually compelling backstory.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
Trehalose
alpha,alpha-trehalose · mushroom sugar · mycosamine
Clean beauty perception
Accepted in clean beauty. Mushroom and natural organism origin supports clean and biotech narrative. Associated with the bioresilience and climate-adaptive ingredient trend.
Related ingredients
Graph relationships
Timeline