Ingredient Intelligence
biotech

Phytomelatonin

A plant-derived melatonin appearing in prestige anti-ageing eye creams. The phyto prefix denotes botanical origin rather than a structurally distinct compound — chemically identical to human melatonin. Growing interest in chronobiology-inspired skincare.

Benefits
  • Antioxidant — direct radical scavenging activity superior to vitamins C and E by some metrics
  • Anti-inflammatory via melatonin receptor activation (MT1, MT2) in skin
  • Circadian rhythm synchronisation in skin cells
  • Supports skin repair during nighttime recovery cycle
  • Anti-ageing via mitochondrial protection
Example uses
  • Anti-ageing eye creams
  • Night recovery serums
  • Chronobiology-positioned night creams
  • Antioxidant complex serum formulas
  • Premium anti-fatigue eye treatments
Mechanism of action
Melatonin (N-acetyl-5-methoxytryptamine) is a potent direct antioxidant via electron donation to hydroxyl and peroxyl radicals. Binds MT1 and MT2 G protein-coupled receptors in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts, activating downstream cAMP reduction and Nrf2 signalling — increasing endogenous antioxidant enzyme (SOD, GPx) expression. The chronobiology mechanism proposes that topical evening application synchronises the skin circadian clock, optimising night-time DNA repair and collagen synthesis cycles.
Clinical evidence · Emerging

In vitro antioxidant studies and receptor binding characterised. Limited controlled clinical trials for topical melatonin anti-ageing outcomes. Chronobiology skin clock mechanism well-characterised in cell biology but not validated in topical cosmetics.

Effective concentration range
0.01–0.1%
Formulation notes
Sensitive to light and oxidation — night-use products appropriately positioned. Requires dark, UV-protective packaging. Pairs well with peptides and antioxidants in night formulation.
Watchouts
The functional equivalence of plant-origin and synthetic melatonin is complete — phyto prefix is a marketing distinction. Topical melatonin penetration studies are limited. Clinical evidence for anti-ageing efficacy specifically via melatonin receptors in skin is early-stage.
Controversies & overclaims
The phyto prefix is a marketing distinction without chemical or pharmacological relevance — phytomelatonin is identical to melatonin. The chronobiology anti-ageing narrative is intellectually compelling but the clinical translation to visible anti-ageing outcomes has not been established in adequately powered RCTs.
Market positioning
Marketed as plant-derived chronobiological antioxidant. Antioxidant activity is genuinely superior to many established antioxidants. The circadian skin-clock optimisation claim is plausible but not clinically validated.
Comedogenicity

0 / 5

Sensitisation risk

Low

INCI & aliases

Phytomelatonin

plant-derived melatonin · botanically sourced melatonin · melatonin (plant origin)

Clean beauty perception

Emerging with enthusiasm in clean beauty due to the plant-derived origin and chronobiology narrative. Positioned as the next-generation antioxidant in prestige night care.

Graph relationships
Timeline