active
Ergothioneine
The 'longevity vitamin' (per Bruce Ames's 2018 framing) — a sulfur-containing amino acid antioxidant with a dedicated transporter (OCTN1) that concentrates it in oxidatively-stressed tissues including skin. Mibelle's MitoPro biotech ergothioneine put it into the pro-formulator toolbox; clean-prestige brands (Augustinus Bader, Symbiome, Allies of Skin) and the longevity-skincare wave drove it into 2024–2025 hero status.
Benefits
- potent ROS quencher with skin-specific transporter accumulation
- mitochondrial support and senescence-pathway evidence
- stable across pH and temperature — formulator-friendly
Example uses
- longevity serums (Symbiome, Augustinus Bader)
- AOX and mitochondrial-support complexes
Mechanism of action
A naturally occurring sulphur-containing histidine derivative synthesised exclusively by certain fungi and mycobacteria — humans cannot make it, but skin and other tissues express a dedicated transporter (OCTN1 / SLC22A4) that concentrates dietary ergothioneine specifically in oxidatively stressed sites. The thione-thiol tautomer provides exceptional ROS quenching, particularly hydroxyl radicals and singlet oxygen, while resisting auto-oxidation (it doesn't behave like a classical antioxidant pro-oxidant under physiological conditions). Bruce Ames's 'longevity vitamin' framing reflects evidence linking low ergothioneine status to age-related disease incidence.
Clinical evidence · Emerging
Strong basic-science and oral-supplementation literature; topical skin-RCT data is small-sample and largely supplier-funded; mechanism is robust, finished-product clinical translation is still maturing.
Effective concentration range
0.1–1% (Mibelle MitoPro biotech-derived at the high end)
Formulation notes
Effective at 0.1–1% in serums and creams. Stable, compatible with virtually any system. Pairs with niacinamide, peptides, and vitamin C.
Watchouts
Cost — fermented ergothioneine is expensive, and some 'ergothioneine' claims use sub-active doses. Long-term clinical skin data is still maturing.
Controversies & overclaims
Cost is the principal constraint — fermented ergothioneine is genuinely expensive and 'contains ergothioneine' on a label commonly means sub-active dosing. The OCTN1 skin-transporter logic is sometimes oversold into 'specifically targets aged cells', which oversimplifies what is a tissue-distribution finding, not a senescence-selective one.
Market positioning
Sold as the longevity-skincare frontier antioxidant. Honest position: a genuinely excellent and well-targeted antioxidant active with strong mechanistic credentials and maturing topical clinicals — worth the cost in formulations that dose it meaningfully, performative in those that don't.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
Ergothioneine
egt · l-ergothioneine · mitopro
Clean beauty perception
Strongly positive, biotech-clean aligned.
Related ingredients
Graph relationships
Timeline