Ingredient Intelligence
botanical

Indigo Leaf Extract

Anti-inflammatory botanical extract in prestige serums. Indirubin content provides the mechanism for calming and barrier-support claims. Used in French clinical skincare for sensitive and reactive skin.

Benefits
  • Anti-inflammatory via indirubin and indigo compounds
  • Inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokine production
  • Barrier support — improves skin hydration
  • Traditional use in inflammatory skin conditions (eczema, psoriasis)
  • Antioxidant flavonoid fraction
Example uses
  • Brightening serums
  • Clinical anti-inflammatory products
  • Sensitive skin serums
  • Barrier repair creams
  • Calming botanical serums
Mechanism of action
Indirubin (a bis-indole alkaloid) inhibits CDK5 and GSK-3β kinases involved in inflammatory signalling cascades. Also inhibits STAT3 phosphorylation, reducing IL-6 and TNF-α production. The combination of kinase inhibition and cytokine suppression provides multi-target anti-inflammatory activity distinct from standard botanical anti-inflammatories acting through NF-κB alone.
Clinical evidence · Emerging

In vitro kinase inhibition studies well-characterised. Clinical data for topical indigo extract in atopic dermatitis is emerging. No large RCTs for cosmetic brightening claims.

Effective concentration range
0.1–1%
Formulation notes
Aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract; indirubin content requires standardisation. Deep blue colour from indigo content requires colour management in clear formulations.
Watchouts
Indirubin at high concentrations is cytotoxic — safety at cosmetic dilution is established but high-concentration extracts require careful dosing. Potential for skin staining from indigo pigment in higher concentrations.
Market positioning
Sold as a clinical anti-inflammatory botanical. The kinase inhibition mechanism differentiates it from simpler botanical anti-inflammatories; clinical evidence in cosmetic use is still accumulating.
Comedogenicity

0 / 5

Sensitisation risk

Low

INCI & aliases

Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract

indigofera tinctoria leaf extract · true indigo extract · neel extract · isatis tinctoria extract

Clean beauty perception

Accepted in clinical clean beauty. Associated with French pharmacy and dermatological skincare traditions. Biologique Recherche's clinical positioning amplifies credibility.

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