biotech
Hemisqualane (Sugarcane-Derived)
Amyris's Neossance Hemisqualane — fermented from sugarcane via genetically engineered yeast (the same Biossance squalane platform). Hemisqualane is the lighter, lower-MW cousin: silicone-feel slip without silicone, used in haircare (OUAI Wave Spray, K18) and lightweight skincare to deliver the dimethicone aesthetic on a clean label. Biotech-clean's most quietly dominant texture ingredient.
Benefits
- silicone-like slip and shine without dimethicone
- vegan, biodegradable, biotech-fermented
- lightweight — won't weigh down hair or skin
Example uses
- clean haircare slip (OUAI, K18)
- lightweight facial oils
- silicone-replacement primers
Mechanism of action
A short-chain saturated isoparaffin (C13–C15) produced by Amyris's farnesene-platform yeast fermentation of sugarcane and subsequent hydrogenation — the lower-molecular-weight cousin of squalane (C30). The shorter chain length means lower viscosity, faster spread, and a sensorial profile that mimics light cyclic silicones (D5, cyclomethicone) — slip, quick absorption, and gloss without the aquatic-persistence concern. Functions as a lightweight emollient and solvent for oil-soluble actives; in haircare delivers shine and detangling without buildup.
Clinical evidence · Moderate
Strong physicochemical and sensorial characterisation; established cosmetic safety profile; comparative clinical work against silicones is largely supplier-led.
Effective concentration range
1–100% in oils; 1–10% in emulsions
Formulation notes
Use 1–10% in haircare and skincare emulsions; 1–100% in oils and serums. Compatible with virtually any system. The supply chain (Amyris, single-source) is the open business risk after Amyris's 2023–2024 financial restructuring.
Watchouts
Single-supplier ingredient — supply continuity is the open question. 'Squalane' and 'hemisqualane' are sometimes conflated in marketing.
Controversies & overclaims
Single-source supply (Amyris) is the open business question: the company's 2023 Chapter 11 filing temporarily destabilised availability across multiple clean-beauty SKUs that had standardised on hemisqualane as their silicone replacement. 'Sugarcane-derived' marketing implies a romantic supply chain; the reality is industrial fermentation in São Paulo bioreactors, which is fine but not the marketing image.
Market positioning
Sold as the clean, biodegradable answer to dimethicone — and on the sensorial gap that has historically been the biggest barrier to silicone replacement, it largely delivers. OUAI, K18, and a wave of 2023–2025 launches built haircare around it.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
C13-15 Alkane
c13-15 alkane · neossance hemisqualane
Clean beauty perception
Strongly positive — the biotech-clean answer to silicone.
Products using Hemisqualane (Sugarcane-Derived)
Related ingredients
Graph relationships
Timeline