botanical
Arnica Extract
Traditional anti-inflammatory botanical with dual reputation — sports medicine for bruising/inflammation, and clean beauty body oils and calming skincare.
Benefits
- Anti-inflammatory via sesquiterpene lactone (helenalin)
- Reduces bruising and post-procedure swelling
- Antioxidant flavonoid content
- Analgesic at therapeutic concentrations
- Traditionally used for muscle soreness
Example uses
- Body oils for muscle recovery
- Post-workout balms
- Bruise creams
- Calming body lotions
- Post-procedure cooling gels
Mechanism of action
Helenalin inhibits NF-κB signalling by alkylating cysteine residues in the IκB kinase complex, preventing transcription of pro-inflammatory cytokines. Flavonoids contribute secondary ROS scavenging.
Clinical evidence · Moderate
Multiple RCTs for pharmaceutical-grade preparations in bruising and osteoarthritis. Cosmetic dilution effects are extrapolated.
Effective concentration range
0.5–5% (therapeutic); 0.1–1% (cosmetic extract)
Formulation notes
Aqueous or hydroalcoholic extracts; helenalin content varies by extraction. Not recommended for use on broken skin.
Watchouts
Helenalin is a known contact sensitiser. At cosmetic dilution risk is low but real for Asteraceae-sensitive individuals.
Stacks with
Controversies & overclaims
Cosmetic-to-therapeutic claim transfer is the main overclaim risk. At <1% cosmetic concentration the athletic recovery narrative overreaches.
Market positioning
Sold on pharmaceutical arnica's reputation. At cosmetic extract concentrations the anti-inflammatory effect is real but modest.
Comedogenicity
1 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Moderate
INCI & aliases
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
arnica montana flower extract · mountain arnica · wolf's bane extract
Clean beauty perception
Ambivalent in clean-beauty. Accepted in body care and post-procedure products. Sensitisation potential underreported.
Related ingredients
Graph relationships
Timeline