Intelligence · Ingredients

The ingredient narratives reshaping clean beauty.

Heartleaf (Houttuynia cordata)

aka houttuynia cordata · houttuynia · eo-seong-cho · fish mint

The post-centella K-beauty soothing star. Heartleaf — known in Korean as 'eo-seong-cho' — is a wild mountain herb traditionally used for inflammation and acne; brands Anua, Abib, and Round Lab built entire identities around it from 2023 onward. Anua's Heartleaf 77 Soothing Toner became the breakout K-beauty toner of 2024. Quercitrin and reynoutrin are the active flavonoids; the 'redness reset' positioning resonates with the rosacea-aware Western audience.

Benefits
  • calms acute redness and inflammation (post-acne, post-sun, sensitivity flares)
  • antimicrobial — gentle support for acne-prone skin
  • antioxidant flavonoid load
Example uses
  • soothing toners (Anua Heartleaf 77)
  • calming essences
  • post-acne redness creams
Formulation notes

Used at 10–80% as the lead aqueous phase in toners and essences. Often paired with centella, panthenol, and niacinamide. Works in cool, low-active vehicles.

Watchouts

Real efficacy depends on extract concentration — '77% heartleaf' marketing is aspirational; check INCI position. Allergic contact dermatitis is rare but reported.

Clean beauty perception

Strongly positive — the 'next centella' for clean K-beauty.