active
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M)
BASF's hybrid organic-particulate UVA/UVB filter — works by absorption, scattering, and reflection simultaneously, which is unique among cosmetic UV actives. Photostable, broad-spectrum, micronized (but EU-cleared as non-nano per the regulatory definition). Approved in EU, UK, Asia, Australia; not FDA-approved in the US. The reason European and Asian SPF feels generations ahead.
Benefits
- broad-spectrum UVA + UVB in a single molecule
- photostable; stabilizes other co-formulated filters (avobenzone)
- particulate format — partial scatter mechanism reduces systemic absorption
Example uses
- Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun
- Bioderma Photoderm
- La Roche-Posay Anthelios (EU)
Mechanism of action
A BASF-developed hybrid organic-particulate UV filter — uniquely among cosmetic actives, it operates through three concurrent mechanisms: photochemical absorption (the benzotriazolyl chromophore absorbs broad-spectrum UVA and UVB), Mie scattering (the micronised particle size reflects and refracts UV photons like a mineral filter), and reflection from the particle surface. Photostable, broad-spectrum (290–400 nm with strong UVA1 coverage), and stabilises co-formulated less-photostable filters (notably avobenzone). Particulate format means partial-scatter mechanism — clean-purist positioning depends on whether one classifies it as 'physical' or 'chemical', a definitional question rather than a chemistry question.
Clinical evidence · High
Approved and used in EU, UK, Asia, Australia for over two decades; extensive SPF and broad-spectrum efficacy literature; safety profile is among the most-studied of cosmetic filters.
Effective concentration range
2–10% (commonly co-formulated with Tinosorb S and avobenzone in EU formulations)
Formulation notes
Effective at 2–10%; commonly used with Tinosorb S, ethylhexyl triazone, and avobenzone in EU/Asia formulations. Compatible with mineral filters for hybrid systems.
Watchouts
Not FDA-approved (US). Particulate so technically a 'physical-chemical hybrid' — clean-puritan camp's positioning depends on definition.
Controversies & overclaims
FDA non-approval (US OTC monograph backlog) is the central commercial controversy — Tinosorb M has 20+ years of EU and Asian safety data the FDA has not formally evaluated, and its absence from US sunscreens is a measurable gap in available broad-spectrum cast-free options. EU classification of Tinosorb M as 'non-nano' per the regulatory definition is contested by clean-puritan campaigns despite the formal regulatory standing.
Market positioning
A category-defining filter in EU/Asian dermatology-led SPF (La Roche-Posay Anthelios, Avène, Bioderma) — and the absence of an equivalent in the US monograph is the persistent gap between US and global sun protection. Honest position: the underlying photochemistry and safety profile is excellent; the regulatory geography is the open question.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
tinosorb m · bisoctrizole · mbbt
Clean beauty perception
Trusted in Asia/EU clean spectrum; contested in US clean-puritan space because of FDA gap.
Related ingredients
Graph relationships
Timeline