active
Octocrylene
A dual-function UV filter and photostabiliser for avobenzone in broad-spectrum sunscreens. Under scrutiny for benzophenone degradation and aquatic ecotoxicity concerns.
Benefits
- UVB + short UVA II absorption (280–340 nm)
- Photostabilises avobenzone — key function
- Oil-soluble for aesthetic sunscreen formulations
- High photostability itself
- FDA-approved up to 10%
Example uses
- Chemical sunscreens
- Water-resistant sunscreens
- Sports sunscreens
- Film-former paired SPF products
- Broad-spectrum cosmetic SPF
Mechanism of action
Absorbs UVA II and UVB radiation via cyano-diphenyl acrylate chromophore electronic transition. Photostabilises avobenzone through triplet-triplet energy transfer — excited-state avobenzone transfers energy to octocrylene, preventing avobenzone photodegradation. This mechanism is energy-dissipative — octocrylene itself is highly photostable.
Clinical evidence · High
UV protection and photostabilisation function definitively established. Benzophenone formation characterised. SCCS and TGA assessments completed.
Effective concentration range
Up to 10% (FDA, EU)
Formulation notes
Hydrophobic; oil-phase incorporation only. Essential photostabiliser for avobenzone combinations. High concentration needed for adequate avobenzone photostabilisation.
Watchouts
Degrades to benzophenone over time (hydrolysis) — benzophenone has established endocrine disrupting properties. Aquatic ecotoxicity documented in coral reef studies. Canada has restricted use in sunscreen products over aquatic toxicity concerns. SCCS 2021 review assessed safety concerns.
Stacks with
Conflicts with
Controversies & overclaims
Benzophenone degradation and coral reef toxicity are legitimate concerns beyond clean-beauty marketing. Canada's restriction reflects regulatory translation of these findings. The reef-safe narrative, while sometimes oversimplified, reflects genuine ecotoxicology data.
Market positioning
Marketed as essential photostabiliser for avobenzone-based sunscreens. Accurate for function. Environmental concerns are supported by ecotoxicology data, not solely clean-beauty narrative.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
Octocrylene
2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate · Eusolex OCR · Parsol 340
Clean beauty perception
Increasingly avoided in marine-safe and reef-safe clean-beauty sunscreens. The benzophenone degradation finding and reef toxicity concerns have accelerated clean-beauty formulation toward mineral SPF.
Graph relationships
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