active
Octisalate (Ethylhexyl Salicylate)
A UVB-absorbing organic UV filter providing supplementary UVB protection and avobenzone photostabilisation. Appears in chemical sunscreen combinations. Under moderate regulatory scrutiny.
Benefits
- UVB absorption (290–315 nm)
- Photostabilises avobenzone by trapping excited-state energy
- Oil-soluble — aesthetic compatibility
- Enhances water resistance when combined with film-formers
- FDA-approved up to 5%
Example uses
- Chemical sunscreens
- SPF moisturisers
- Tinted SPF formulas
- Sports sunscreens
- After-sun SPF maintenance formulas
Mechanism of action
Salicylate chromophore absorbs UVB photons via π-conjugated system transition. Absorbs excited-state energy from avobenzone via triplet energy transfer, reducing avobenzone photodegradation. The mechanism of potential estrogenic activity is ER-alpha binding in cell culture studies, not established at cosmetic use concentrations in vivo.
Clinical evidence · High
UV protection function definitively established. SCCS/FDA GRASE assessments ongoing. Systemic absorption documented.
Effective concentration range
Up to 5% (FDA); up to 5% (EU)
Formulation notes
Requires avobenzone or other UVA filter for broad-spectrum claim. Pairs well with octocrylene and homosalate. Not volatile.
Watchouts
SCCS 2021 review flagged potential estrogenic activity in vitro; in vivo significance at cosmetic use concentrations is considered low by TGA 2025 review. Systemic absorption above 0.5 ng/mL threshold documented. Less controversial than homosalate.
Stacks with
Conflicts with
Controversies & overclaims
Endocrine disruption in vitro findings remain inconclusive at cosmetic use concentrations per TGA 2025. Less concerning than homosalate but the regulatory environment is evolving.
Market positioning
Marketed as gentle photostabilising UVB filter. Accurate for function. In vitro estrogenic activity at cosmetic use concentrations has uncertain clinical relevance but is a legitimate subject of regulatory review.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
ethylhexyl salicylate · 2-ethylhexyl salicylate · 2-EHS · octyl salicylate
Clean beauty perception
Accepted in many clean-beauty brands using hybrid or chemical SPF. European acceptance higher than US clean-beauty context.
Related ingredients
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Timeline