active
Kaolin
A naturally occurring clay mineral used as a mattifying and stabilising agent in colour cosmetics. One of the foundational clean-beauty powder ingredients.
Benefits
- Oil absorbent — mattifying effect
- Stabilises emulsions and suspensions
- Improves texture in powder formulas
- Mild skin conditioning
- Natural mineral — minimally processed
Example uses
- Bronzing crèmes
- Setting powders
- Clay face masks
- Mattifying primers
- Talc-free foundations
Mechanism of action
Clay mineral absorbs sebum and moisture via capillary action within the layered aluminosilicate crystal structure. Platy crystal morphology presents high surface area for lipid absorption. Emulsion stabilisation via interference with droplet coalescence.
Clinical evidence · High
Well-characterised clay with extensive cosmetic use history. Safety confirmed by CIR and SCCS with asbestos-free specification. Mechanism physical.
Effective concentration range
5–25% in powder formulas; 1–5% in emulsions
Formulation notes
Fine particle size (1–2 microns typical) required for cosmetic use. Functions in both anhydrous powder formulas and emulsions. Opaque white — colour management in tinted products.
Watchouts
Contamination risk: naturally occurring kaolin deposits can contain asbestos (tremolite) co-contamination. Cosmetic-grade kaolin must be certified asbestos-free. This distinction is critical given the talc/asbestos controversy.
Stacks with
Controversies & overclaims
Talc's contamination history with asbestos is directly relevant to kaolin, which shares the risk of asbestos co-minerals in natural deposits. Cosmetic-grade CoA asbestos testing is essential and should be communicated more transparently.
Market positioning
Marketed as natural clay alternative to talc. Accurate if asbestos-free grade is verified and disclosed.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Low
INCI & aliases
Kaolin
china clay · hydrated aluminum silicate · kaolin clay
Clean beauty perception
Universally accepted in clean beauty as a natural clay mineral. The asbestos contamination risk in natural clays requires supply chain vigilance that is not always communicated to consumers.
Graph relationships
Timeline