fragrance component
Coumarin
Fragrance component contributing sweet, powdery, hay-like tonka bean notes to cologne and fougère compositions. On the EU's 26 mandatory fragrance allergen disclosure list.
Benefits
- Sweet, powdery, hay-like fragrance character
- Fixative properties
- Tonka bean and sweet woody base note
- Used in classic masculine and fougère compositions
- Available from natural (tonka bean) and synthetic sources
Example uses
- Eau de cologne
- Fougère fragrance compositions
- Aftershave
- Aromatic body products
- Woody fragrance bases
Mechanism of action
Fragrance function via olfactory receptor activation from its lactone structure. No pharmacological skin mechanism.
Clinical evidence · Moderate
RIFM safety assessments and IFRA restrictions established.
Effective concentration range
q.s. (IFRA restricted)
Formulation notes
Oil-soluble fragrance component. EU mandatory allergen disclosure required. IFRA restricts use levels in leave-on applications.
Watchouts
EU mandatory fragrance allergen. IARC historical carcinogen classification at high oral doses — topical and inhalation at cosmetic use is not associated with carcinogenic risk. Sensitisation documented. IFRA restrictions apply.
Stacks with
Controversies & overclaims
Coumarin's historical carcinogen classification created clean-beauty backlash. Current IFRA limits are considered adequate to manage sensitisation risk; carcinogenic risk at topical cosmetic exposure is negligible.
Market positioning
Marketed as natural tonka/sweet fragrance note. Accurate. IFRA restriction and EU allergen status not typically disclosed at consumer level.
Comedogenicity
0 / 5
Sensitisation risk
Moderate
INCI & aliases
Coumarin
1,2-benzopyrone · tonka bean lactone · cis-o-coumaric acid lactone
Clean beauty perception
Scrutinised in clean-beauty fragrance transparency. Most clean brands use fragrance-free positioning rather than engaging with individual allergen disclosure.
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